Longarm Service & Fine Tuning
A quiet machine is a happy machine!!!!
Fig. 1: Our beloved workhorse.
Is that beloved workhorse getting louder and louder?
Is that beloved workhorse getting louder and louder?
Performance not quite what it used to be?
Drop me a line and I can help. With several years experience servicing and fine tuning our Gammill, I can help with problems along with cost effective ways to improve your work and save time! Also, see below for my Tips & Tweaks.
Reasonable rates. Will travel throughout SE Idaho.
Jon
Fine Tuning - Tips & Tweaks
Needles
Thread path
Longarm quilting machines work fine out of the box. But, we want more!!!!
Through years of research and experience we have found a few valuable Tips & Tweaks that make a world of difference in our longarm work! I would like to acknowledge Sharon Schamber and her network. Her contributions to the art quilt community are invaluable!Needles
Thread path
Longarm quilting machines work fine out of the box. But, we want more!!!!
The competition is fierce and the limits are stretched. These machines are doing things unheard of just a few years ago. Running multiple threads on the top through the needle, ribbons instead of thread in the bobbin, if you can think of it, it has been attempted and perhaps done successfully with some adjustment here and there.
Then there is the super fine Heirloom work that demands precision. That is the main reason for all this fuss with tips and tweaks.
Then there is the super fine Heirloom work that demands precision. That is the main reason for all this fuss with tips and tweaks.
It's all in the needle.
Fig. 2 Schmetz needles from Ed Fig.3 SNF on left and Schmetz on right
Since we switched to these Schmetz needles, the world is our oyster (unless you hate oysters, then it would just be considered much improved).
In figure 3, the Schmetz needle on the right is straight, polished inside and out, and heat tempered.
In figure 3, the Schmetz needle on the right is straight, polished inside and out, and heat tempered.
Yes, heat tempered! Needles last much longer!
And, the needles are designed to break before bending!
Polishing the needle and the needle eye causes much less thread and fabric abuse, no more "burrs" to frustrate! You have confidence that the needle is the least of your worries. Hurray!!!
Last but not least, the straight shaft of the needle makes for a smoother stitch and a smaller puncture hole. The machine will run smoother and quieter!
If you do not know yet, you will, needle designations (canu, nm, size) are just as confusing as thread designations (wt., #, tex.). Drop me a line if you have any questions. We get our needles from Ed Raichert Inc. Their web site is a little confusing and hard to navigate. They are working on a new design. In the mean time, just give them a call to make your order and give them our best. You can also get the in-service on needle designations!
***The needle scarf/hook assembly association will need to be adjusted for the Schmetz needles. The hook will slightly hit the needle if you do not. The Schmetz needle scarf has a different association to its own shaft than the Singer type needles.***
I use Rick Taylor's approach to adjusting the association of the needle scarf to the hook assembly. I set the adjustment so that there is no scarf/hook "gap" and no pressure deflecting the needle. I adjust the hook to a #90 needle and have had good luck with the #80 and #100. The #75 may be a reach and the #110 may slightly hit the hook. You most likely may need to readjust the scarf/hook association if you were to change to one of these needle sizes, but to use these needles is worth it!
We have experimented with stabilizing our thread path in addition to decreasing the amount of thread drag and friction along the way. As you can see from the above picture we have added a new "beginning of thread path" option by the installation of a cone stand to the top/front of our machine. This was to facilitate the changing of thread cones. Questions on this, drop me a line!
I like to think of the machine/thread interface as causing friction and drag. Controlling "thread whip" and having super smooth surfaces at these "contact" points as much as possible will decrease these factors and give the adjustable tension wheel/disc better control. ???
Meaning, having enough thread guides and ones lined with a type of very hard (for durability) and smooth type material will address this issue. Very much like a high quality fishing rod. All of the fishing rod line guides have an eyelet lining to decrease this line drag on the rod. This eyelet lining is usually made from some sort of ceramic type material.
Last but not least, the straight shaft of the needle makes for a smoother stitch and a smaller puncture hole. The machine will run smoother and quieter!
If you do not know yet, you will, needle designations (canu, nm, size) are just as confusing as thread designations (wt., #, tex.). Drop me a line if you have any questions. We get our needles from Ed Raichert Inc. Their web site is a little confusing and hard to navigate. They are working on a new design. In the mean time, just give them a call to make your order and give them our best. You can also get the in-service on needle designations!
***The needle scarf/hook assembly association will need to be adjusted for the Schmetz needles. The hook will slightly hit the needle if you do not. The Schmetz needle scarf has a different association to its own shaft than the Singer type needles.***
I use Rick Taylor's approach to adjusting the association of the needle scarf to the hook assembly. I set the adjustment so that there is no scarf/hook "gap" and no pressure deflecting the needle. I adjust the hook to a #90 needle and have had good luck with the #80 and #100. The #75 may be a reach and the #110 may slightly hit the hook. You most likely may need to readjust the scarf/hook association if you were to change to one of these needle sizes, but to use these needles is worth it!
_________________________
OK, it's also in the thread path.We have experimented with stabilizing our thread path in addition to decreasing the amount of thread drag and friction along the way. As you can see from the above picture we have added a new "beginning of thread path" option by the installation of a cone stand to the top/front of our machine. This was to facilitate the changing of thread cones. Questions on this, drop me a line!
I like to think of the machine/thread interface as causing friction and drag. Controlling "thread whip" and having super smooth surfaces at these "contact" points as much as possible will decrease these factors and give the adjustable tension wheel/disc better control. ???
Meaning, having enough thread guides and ones lined with a type of very hard (for durability) and smooth type material will address this issue. Very much like a high quality fishing rod. All of the fishing rod line guides have an eyelet lining to decrease this line drag on the rod. This eyelet lining is usually made from some sort of ceramic type material.
Well then, let's just put them on the machine!!!!
Fig. 4: Examples of fishing rod line guides.
Shaft type on the left and tip type on the right.
Fig. 5: Fishing rod line guide at left. Arrow points to left thread lead-off repositioned on the right side of machine.
Fig. 6: Rod shaft guides and a change to adjustable "disc" tension. Fig. 7: Rod tip guides lead to needle bar guide.
Fig. 8: Juki thread guides Fig. 9: Donita's Pigtail
Fig. 10: Boersmas' rod shaft guide addition and Extend-A-Drive handles.
Fig. 4: Examples of fishing rod line guides.
Shaft type on the left and tip type on the right.
On our Gammill below in figure 5, you will notice the blue intermittent tension discs and blue eyelets on the thread lead-offs, (arrow). These are of a ceramic material and are for just that, decreasing drag in the thread path. (We also moved the thread lead-off from the left, bobbin winder, side to the right side where that little post would be, (arrow). This was to accommodate the moving of our "beginning of thread path" to the front of the machine.)
Fig. 5: Fishing rod line guide at left. Arrow points to left thread lead-off repositioned on the right side of machine.
Fig. 6: Rod shaft guides and a change to adjustable "disc" tension. Fig. 7: Rod tip guides lead to needle bar guide.
Fig. 8: Juki thread guides Fig. 9: Donita's Pigtail
Fig. 10: Boersmas' rod shaft guide addition and Extend-A-Drive handles.
You can see our added and altered thread guides in figures 5-7, note our needle bar thread guide in figure 7 (more on this later ). Examples of other needle bar area thread guides can be seen in figures 8-10.
FastSteel, pictured below, is an example of a popular and easy to work with "epoxy putty adhesive" that is similar to what I used to attach some of our additional thread guides. Sharon also recommends using it to affix the dual cone holder to the top of the machine. I used the bolt hole from the laser post on top using care not to sink the bolt too far in and disrupt the innards.
Fig. 11: Brand of epoxy stick puddy adhesive.
(A note on this type of "glue". It seems like it is too easy to work with and that it just doesn't stick well. Use it. Stick it on. Give it a little extra push on cause you can't help yourself and then walk away. It'll work if you follow the directions!!! It is the coolest type of glue on earth.)
There are many different ways to add thread guides. Where to and what kind I'm sure will be a controversy for ages to come, but all will agree that "there ain't enough of 'em".
Needle-bar thread guide????
I find this to be of particular concern.
To be continued!
Questions? Drop me a line.
FastSteel, pictured below, is an example of a popular and easy to work with "epoxy putty adhesive" that is similar to what I used to attach some of our additional thread guides. Sharon also recommends using it to affix the dual cone holder to the top of the machine. I used the bolt hole from the laser post on top using care not to sink the bolt too far in and disrupt the innards.
Fig. 11: Brand of epoxy stick puddy adhesive.
There are many different ways to add thread guides. Where to and what kind I'm sure will be a controversy for ages to come, but all will agree that "there ain't enough of 'em".
Needle-bar thread guide????
I find this to be of particular concern.
To be continued!
Questions? Drop me a line.
